In the never-ending search for delectaffordable wines: Gamay, Pinot Noir’s child prodigy
THE WINE GUY
’Tis the season to grab a couple bottles of Beaujolais Nouveau from this year’s recently released vintage.
What is Beaujolais? It’s both a region — located to the north of the culinary Mecca of Lyon and to the south of the famed region known as Burgundy — and the name of the types of wines produced there from the Gamay grape.
Genetic DNA testing shows that Gamay is the “son” of Pinot Noir, a direct product of a cross (Hybrid/ Interspecific crossing) between its two parents, Pinot Noir and Gouais Blanc.
Worth noting: this prolific pair is responsible for at least
OIN
SSEUR
81 different offspring varieties, with chardonnay being perhaps the most illustrious; but including Chenin blanc, Riesling, Colombard, Traminer, Aligoté and Auxerrois, to name a few.
Although they share a substantial genetic ancestry, Gamay owns distinctively different genetic markers and properties from its better- known Pinot Noir parent, including being easier to grow, as well as producing higher yields per acre.
In the 14th century, the Duke of Burgundy issued a decree that banned the production of Gamay in the Côte D’Or parcels of his Duchy in order for the area to produce more Pinot Noir, which was regarded as being more elegant.
This led Gamay producers to start planting Gamay vineyards in the Beaujolais region where it was found to thrive in the granite soils of that area.
As a point of easy reference for Gamay, think highly aromatics with floral notes such as violets, peonies and irises, versus Pinot Noir’s more layered, pronounced and complex aromas, which can include red flowers often encompassing earthy, savory elements.
There are three types of Beaujolais and although some of the Nouveau mentioned above can be pleasant, none of them are either great or destined for longterm cellaring. In fact, Beaujolais Nouveau is meant to be aged only “from the store shelves to your table,” and in any case, is meant to be consumed within a maximum of a few weeks.
There are two other superior types of Beaujolais. The first is Beaujolais Villages, produced in 38 villages in the northern sector of the region. In these you will encounter more medium-bodied wines, along with definite fruit forward profiles, including spicy notes and flavors such as black cherry and strawberry.
At the top of the “fruit chain” are the 10 Cru Beaujolais. This is Gamay at its best.
Cru Beaujolais presents the most beautiful expression of the Gamay grape with full body and age-worthy structured fruitiness. They are Brouilly, Côte de Brouilly, Chénas, Chiroubles, Fleurie, Juliénas, Morgton, Moulin-à-Vent, Régnié and Saint-Amour.
Cru Beaujolais is the classic red that ought to always be featured on your Thanksgiving table. Not the Nouveau described at the top of this column, but the real deal Cru; mineral and structured. Grown on granite. It has the snap and lift to keep up with everything from stuffing to gravy.
Champagne, Chenin blanc, Pinot Noir and Riesling all deserve honorable mentions, as do cool-climate Chardonnays from Willamette or Chablis; (to guarantee the acid lift needed with any stuffing).
The number one job of the wine at your Thanksgiving table should be to wake everything up with energy and acid; something to cut right through the fat like a squeeze of lemon juice on top of the heavier fare.
Either that, or to match the mood with soft edges and ripe fruit like a mirror of what’s on the table. Nail both and you’ve hit the wine home run.
Here’s one I recommend: Domaine Pavillon de Chavannes Côtes de Brouilly 2023.
Happy Holidays, everyone!
Comment
Comments